As a young boy my father would take us on vacations,interesting ones, all over the country. We would see the sights, take in the airs, experience the life. However one peculiar thing about my family vacations, my dad would always leave something out, Delhi without the Qutub Minar, Nainital without Corbett, Rajasthan without Jodhpur & Jaisalmer. To this day i don’t know why.
I have spent the last 5 years, since i returned to India, righting these wrongs. Qutub has been done. This past week it was Jodhpur & Jaisalmer.
Jodhpur
Jodhpur is a small town, with a lot of history, like most places in India, no one cares bout this history unless they make a living from it. The town itself has precious little to offer in terms of a genuine experience. If you like buildings and forts, you will want to visit once. Other than that, culturally, gastronomically and socially the place is pretty much bankrupt. You will be surprised to find that most places serve a mixture of punjabi + south indian food. Rajasthani is something you have to go looking for. Overall you need a weekend and you can “do” Jodhpur.
A visit to jodhpur tour is centered around Mehrangarh fort. Probably, the cleanest, largest, most well maintained historical structure in the country (i reckon because the government has nothing to do with it). The fort was built mostly between 1500-1650s, entry cost is 20 rupees, 50 rupees for a camera pass and 100 for a guide. Not a rip off at all and absolutely worth it.
You have spectacular views of the NOT so blue city from its ramparts. The houses were supposed to denote Brahmins, not so much anymore though.
the palace itself isn’t very grand but the overall architecture is highly sophisticated with a mixture of very different styles of work however the overall effect is seamless.
As is true for most forts in India there is always a moti masjid or mahal (mahal in this case) and a sheesh mahal (glass palace)
The fort also contains exhibits of arms(like Emperor Akbars sword), arts and artefact’s which makes the visit all the more interesting.
Umedh Bhavan is one of the largest private residences in Asia. A sheer monster even for a country known for its excesses.347 rooms took a near 20 years to construct & cost of nearly a Crore (back between 1925-1943). Mindless excess? Not really, it was built as a drought relief project, and employed 6000 people of all kind, laborers, artists.The structure is divided into three sections a small museum, a 60 room hotel and a private residence. Plenty of very interesting art on the walls, some fascinating murals you can stare at for a day.
That is pretty much it. If you are the likes of people who get taken in by Lonely planet etc, you would like to visit the Sardar (clock tower) market for its bangles and riff raff.
Our Hotel
Instead of staying in a not so great property in Jodhpur we chose a hertiage hotel in the village of Luni 35 kms away. It is really in what i would call bumblef**k, a village in and of the boonies. the hotel though was fantastic.
A heritage hotel built in a fort. Fort Chanwa is not only one of the best hotels i have ever been to, they also offered stupendously attentive, friendly and warm service. A testament to Rajasthani hospitality.
The food was also amazing, absolutely some of the best i have ever had. The chef would make anything on order, regardless of the menu. Some fantastic Khichadi, Dal Baati, Paneer Masala, Dal Makhani. the food alone was worth the stay. Evil Stuff.
A nice little pool to chill by. As disappointing as the trip was, the hotel and service made up for it by leaps and bounds.
Next Stop Jaisalmer. Be prepared to have your romantic desert notions shattered.
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